For a closed staircase, staircase lighting involves drilling holes in the risers. For an open staircase, it's different: that surface isn't there. Yet, an open staircase is precisely one of the most beautiful places for low-level lighting, because the light then falls through the staircase instead of onto it.
Below are the three methods that work in practice, with an honest assessment of what each variant requires in terms of preparation.
1. In the wall next to the staircase
If the staircase runs along a wall, this is by far the most commonly used and also the neatest solution. You build the fixtures into the wall, approximately 15 to 20 cm above the tread, and you follow the line of the staircase upwards.
What you need is a wall where you can fit a flush-mounted box. This is easy with plasterboard. With stone, it involves drilling, and then it's smart to mark the positions first before anything goes into the wall — a slanted line of light points that is not parallel to the handrail immediately stands out.
The Trevo has a cut-out size of Ø46.5 mm, which fits into a standard flush-mounted box. The attachment you slide onto it determines which way the light goes; for a wall next to a staircase, "light down" or the variant with a 60° beam works best, because then you illuminate the tread and not the ceiling.
2. In the stringer
The stringer is the slanted beam in which the treads are fixed. For an open staircase, this is often the only vertical surface available, and there is usually enough wood to accommodate a module.
First, measure the thickness of the stringer. The recess depth of our modules is around 34 mm, and there must still be space behind the fixture for the cable. For a stringer of 40 mm solid wood, it will be tight; for 60 mm or more, it is perfectly fine. If you are in doubt, first drill a test hole in a place you won't see later.
The disadvantage: the cable has to go somewhere. For a staircase against the wall, you hide it at the back. If the staircase is freestanding, routing a groove in the back of the stringer is the neat solution — work you prefer to do before the staircase is installed.
3. Under the treads
Light under the overhang of the tread, directed at the tread below. This gives the softest appearance of the three, because you don't see the light source itself — only the effect.
It does require the most preparation, because the wiring then runs under each tread. This is typically something you incorporate into new construction or a staircase renovation, when the treads are being removed anyway. Subsequent installation is possible, but then you're working on your back from below, which is a different kind of job.
What you absolutely should not do with an open staircase
Direct light straight upwards. With a closed staircase, that is still possible because the riser blocks most of it. With an open staircase, you look directly into the light source from below, and it blinds you precisely when you place your foot. So always choose an attachment that directs the light downwards or sideways.
Likewise: do not illuminate every tread. With an open staircase, that quickly becomes too much, because the light also falls through the staircase. Every two or three treads is enough.
How much it costs
Calculate per light point with a base part and an attachment. The Trevo base part costs € 14.95, an attachment € 13.95. For a staircase of fourteen treads with lighting every two treads, you would need seven sets, or approximately € 202.
No driver is included: our modules work directly on 230 volts. This not only saves money, but also space behind the installation point — precisely what is scarce with an open staircase.
In short
- Staircase along a wall → install in the wall, 15 to 20 cm above the tread.
- Staircase free in the room, thick stringer → in the stringer.
- New construction or staircase renovation → under the treads, most beautiful result, most work.
- Always direct light downwards or sideways, never straight up.
- Every two or three treads, not every tread.
Do you have doubts about the recess depth or which attachment suits your staircase? Ask your question — a photo of the staircase usually says enough.