A 1-phase track is screwed to the ceiling or hung from steel cables, with the power connector above the ceiling point. That is where you connect live, neutral and earth. Longer tracks are joined with an I, L or T connector, the open end gets an end cap, and then you click the spotlights or pendant lights in wherever you want them.
Know what you need? View all Single-circuit track lighting (30)
Why a track and not separate spotlights
A track gives you one connection point and freedom after that. You move spotlights when the layout changes, and you can combine a pendant light above the table with spotlights on the same track. On a 1-phase track all fixtures go on and off together, on one switch. If you want to switch groups separately, you need a 3-phase track; that difference is in How do you connect a 3-phase track?
Plan the route first
Draw the line of the track on the ceiling before you drill anything. Start at the ceiling point, because that is where the power comes from.
- Ceiling point at the end of your line: the power connector that comes with the track.
- Ceiling point halfway: a center feed. It joins two tracks and brings in the power at the same time, so the track runs on in both directions. No cable along the ceiling needed.
- Around a corner: an L connector for 90 degrees, a T or X connector for a branch, and a flexible connector for an angle that is not square, such as the transition to a sloping wall.
Our 1-phase tracks are aluminum, 34 by 21 millimeters, and come complete with power connector and end cap.
Mounting, step by step
Circuit off and measure. How to be sure there is no voltage is in How do you check that the power is off?
Cut the track to size. If it needs to be shorter, cut it straight with a hacksaw and deburr the edge. The cut-off piece can be used separately with an extra power connector and end cap.
Mark the drill holes. Hold the track against the ceiling along your line and mark the fixing holes. Use plugs that suit your ceiling. In a plasterboard ceiling without a joist above, you need cavity plugs.
Connect the power. Live to L, neutral to N and earth to the earth terminal of the power connector. Slide the connector into the track and screw the track in place.
Join and close the tracks. Fit the connectors, and put an end cap on every open end. It closes off the conductors and is not just for looks.
Click in the fixtures. Circuit on and test.
Suspended instead of against the ceiling
With a high or sloping ceiling you can also lower the track. With the suspension kit it hangs from 2 meter steel cables and you set the height yourself. Handy above a table or worktop, where you want the light closer.
What you click into it
Only 1-phase fixtures fit a 1-phase track. A few examples from the range:
- the Pavo, 8 centimeters short, 800 to 900 lumens and a CCT switch for 2700K, 3000K or 4000K
- the Lynx, Ø50 mm and 660 lumens in warm white 2700K
- the GU10 track fixture, which takes a GU10 bulb of your choice
- the Vando, a pendant light for the track with a height you set between 50 and 155 centimeters
If you already have a pendant light you want to hang on the track, the pendant adapter does that: it clicks into the track and has a connection point for the cable. Everything for this system is in 1-phase track lighting.
Can you shorten a 1-phase track?
Yes. Cut it straight with a hacksaw and deburr the edge. Use the cut-off part separately with an extra power connector and an end cap.
What do you do if the ceiling point is not at the end of the track?
Use a center feed. It joins two tracks and brings the power in at the middle, so the track runs on in both directions without a cable along the ceiling.
Does a 3-phase spotlight fit a 1-phase track?
No. The adapters differ and are not interchangeable. When ordering, check whether the fixture is for a 1-phase or a 3-phase track.